You get one chance to put the sockets where you want them. Once the plaster's on, it's too late.
Electrics are one of those things that are invisible when done right and endlessly annoying when done wrong. A socket in the wrong place means extension leads trailing across the floor for years. A missing socket behind the TV means cables on show forever. The fix is simple: think about it properly before the electrician starts first-fixing.
General advice
Plan every piece of furniture before the electrician arrives
Where will the bed go? The sofa? The TV? The desk? Every socket position should be driven by how you’ll actually use the room, not by what looks even on a wall.
Double sockets everywhere — never singles
A double socket costs almost the same as a single to install. There’s no reason to put in singles. You’ll always need more sockets than you think.
USB-A and USB-C built-in sockets for bedside
Socket plates with built-in USB ports mean you can charge your phone without a plug adapter. Look for 30W+ output (sometimes labelled PD or Power Delivery) so your phone charges at a reasonable speed, not the painfully slow 5W you get from cheap USB sockets.
My socket plan
Here's exactly what I ended up with, and I'd do the same again:
Bedside sockets
Placed a little over a bed-width in from the corner, so the socket ends up behind the bedside table — not behind the headboard where you can’t reach it. This sounds like a small detail but it makes a big difference daily.
TV socket (high on the wall)
I worked out where the sofa would go, then where the TV would face it, and got the electrician to put a double socket high on the wall behind the TV position. All the cables are hidden behind the screen. This has to be planned before plastering — it’s easy to add at first-fix, impossible after.
Storage area — tech corner
Two double sockets in one storage area for the CCTV NVR, NAS, network switch, WiFi router, and other tech. One socket in the other storage area, switched from the kitchenette (used for under-cabinet LED lighting).
Kitchenette
Two double sockets above countertop height (kettle, toaster), one double below (washing machine + fridge). See our kitchenette guide for more on this setup.
Under-cabinet LED lighting
The electrician wired a socket in the storage area, linked to a switch in the kitchenette. I ran an LED strip from that socket along the underside of the wall cabinets. Cheap, effective, and the switch makes it feel properly integrated.
Light switches and lighting
Light switch placement is fairly standard and your builder or electrician will handle the obvious ones - switch at the door, switch at the top of the stairs. But there are a few decisions worth thinking about before they start:
Dimmer switches
Do you want dimmable lights? If so, you need dimmable LED bulbs AND a dimmer switch. Mention this upfront — it affects both the switch type and the bulb spec.
Smart bulbs vs smart switches
If you’re planning smart bulbs (Philips Hue, IKEA Tradfri, etc.), think about whether you still want a traditional switch. Turning off a smart bulb at the wall switch cuts the power and makes it “offline.” A smart switch or a smart button might be a better pairing.
Landing light with motion sensor
The landing at the top of the new attic stairs is a spot where a motion-sensor light is genuinely useful. It comes on automatically when you walk up and turns off after a timeout. A nice touch that’s easy to add during the build.
Spotlights vs pendant lights
Ceiling spotlights (LED downlights) give a clean, modern look and work well with sloped ceilings. Pendant lights are more decorative but need enough ceiling height. Most attic conversions go with spotlights for the main areas.
Smoke alarm
Building regulations require a smoke alarm in the attic. It should be mains-powered (not battery) and interconnected with the smoke alarms on the rest of the house - so if one goes off, they all go off.
Your builder should include this as standard, but it's worth confirming in the quote. Mains-powered interconnected alarms are significantly safer than standalone battery alarms, and they're a building regulation requirement. Don't let this be an afterthought.
Decisions to make before the electrician arrives
Print this list, sit in the attic space, and think through each one before first-fix starts. It takes 20 minutes and saves years of annoyance.
Where will the bed go? (determines bedside socket positions)
Where will the sofa and TV go? (determines high wall socket position)
Where will the desk go, if home office? (socket + Ethernet position)
Do you want ceiling spotlights or pendant lights?
Do you want dimmer switches?
Do you want smart bulbs? If so, do you need smart switches?
Do you want a motion-sensor light on the landing?
Do you want outdoor CCTV with the NVR in the attic storage?
Do you want Ethernet run in the walls? See our WiFi, Ethernet and smart home guide.
Where will the kitchenette sockets go? Our kitchenette plumbing and layout guide covers the full setup.
Is the smoke alarm mains-powered and interconnected?
The bottom line
Electrics are a "get it right once" job. Spend 20 minutes planning your furniture layout, socket positions, and lighting preferences before the electrician starts. Double sockets everywhere, USB-C at the bedside, a high socket behind the TV, and enough power in the storage area for your tech. It's all cheap and easy during first-fix. After the plaster goes on, your options are gone.
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