Your ground-floor router might not reach the attic. Here are your options so you don't end up with a dead zone in your nicest room.
WiFi, Ethernet, and socket placement are the kind of things nobody thinks about until the walls are plastered and it's too late to run cables. A bit of planning during the build saves a lot of frustration later. Here's what I learned from my own conversion.
WiFi - will your router reach?
Maybe. It depends on your house, your router, and where it sits. I had a decent router on the ground floor that covered the whole house perfectly - but once the attic was converted, the signal up there was weak and unreliable. An extra floor, plus insulation and plasterboard, is a lot for a WiFi signal to push through.
The first thing to try is moving your router to the first floor. If it's currently in the hall or living room, relocating it to a central first-floor position might give you enough coverage to reach both the ground floor and the attic. This is the cheapest fix and worth trying before buying anything.
If that doesn't work (or isn't practical), the standard solution is a second router or mesh node in the attic. I already had a router that supported mesh networking, so I bought a second one of the same brand and put it in the attic storage area. My devices now seamlessly connect to whichever router is closest - no manual switching, one network name, and full-speed coverage everywhere. Most modern routers from any decent brand support this kind of mesh setup.
Budget
A second router or mesh node costs around €80-€200 depending on the brand and spec. Dedicated mesh kits (two or three units sold together) are available from most brands if you're starting fresh. If you already have a good router, check if your brand offers mesh support before buying a whole new kit.
Ethernet - the smart play
WiFi is fine for phones, tablets, and general browsing. But if you're working from home, running a NAS, doing video calls, gaming, or have CCTV, a wired Ethernet connection is significantly better. It's faster, more reliable, and doesn't drop out when someone in the house starts streaming.
Speed comparison at a glance
| Connection | Max Speed | Real-World Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Ethernet (Cat6) | Up to 10 Gbps | Consistent, no interference. Most home gear runs at 1 Gbps - the cable handles 10. |
| WiFi 7 | Up to 46 Gbps | Newest standard. Blazing fast in theory, but range and walls still matter. |
| WiFi 6 / 6E | Up to 9.6 Gbps | Excellent for most homes. What current mid-range routers use. |
| WiFi 5 | Up to 3.5 Gbps | Still common in older routers. Adequate, but struggles through floors. |
The "max speed" numbers for WiFi are theoretical maximums - you'll never see them in practice, especially through walls and floors. Ethernet gives you a consistent, reliable connection every time. For anything that needs to be rock-solid, wired is always better.
What I did (and what I'd do differently)
My Ethernet originally ran to the master bedroom only. Before the conversion, I got the electrician to bring a cable up to the attic and added a network switch in the storage area. That switch now connects the router, NAS, CCTV NVR, and anything else that needs a wired connection. It works well.
What I didn't do - and slightly regret - is get Ethernet cables run into the attic walls before they were plastered. If I were doing it again, I'd have the electrician run at least one or two Cat6 cables to wall plates in the living area (behind where the TV goes, and at the desk). During the build, this is almost free - it's just an extra cable pulled through before the plasterboard goes up. Make sure to agree this with your builder before the walls are closed, because retrofitting afterwards is expensive and messy.
Cable types - what to ask for
| Cable | Speed | Cost | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cat5e | 1 Gbps | Cheapest | Fine for today, but limited for the future. |
| Cat6 | 10 Gbps (up to 55m) | Slightly more | The sweet spot. Ask for this. |
| Cat6a | 10 Gbps (up to 100m) | More again | Overkill for a house, but future-proof. |
| Cat7 | 10 Gbps (shielded) | Most expensive | Unnecessary for residential use. Don't bother. |
Cat6 is the one to ask your electrician for. It supports 10 Gbps speeds over short distances (more than enough for a house), costs only marginally more than Cat5e, and future-proofs you for years. The cable itself is cheap - it's the labour of running it through walls that costs money, which is why you want it done during the build.
Socket and smart home planning
Socket placement is one of those things that's invisible when done right and infuriating when done wrong. Our electrics and sockets guide covers the full socket plan in detail. Think about how you'll actually use the room before the electrician starts first-fixing.
Plan around furniture, not walls
Decide where the bed, sofa, TV, and desk will go BEFORE the electrician starts. Then place sockets to suit. A socket slightly more than a bed-width from the corner puts it right where a bedside table will be.
High wall socket behind the TV position
If you’re wall-mounting a TV or putting one on a stand, a socket high on the wall behind it keeps cables hidden. Mention this to the electrician before plastering — it’s easy to add at first-fix, impossible after.
USB-A and USB-C built-in sockets (check the wattage)
Modern socket plates with built-in USB ports are handy for bedside positions — charge your phone without a plug adapter. But check the output wattage before buying. Cheap USB sockets are often only 5–12W, which charges modern phones painfully slowly. Look for sockets rated at 30W or higher (sometimes labelled PD or Power Delivery) so your phone charges at a reasonable speed. They cost a few euro more but the difference is night and day.
Storage area: at least 2 double sockets for tech
Your storage area will likely end up housing the WiFi router, possibly a network switch, and anything else you want out of sight. Two double sockets gives you enough for all of it.
The storage area as your "server room"
One of the unexpected benefits of an attic conversion is the storage area behind the knee walls. It's tucked away, out of sight, and makes a perfect spot for all the tech you don't want cluttering up your living space.
My storage area currently houses the WiFi router, a network switch, a NAS drive, the CCTV NVR, and a few other bits. Everything is neatly tucked away with power and Ethernet, accessible through the storage hatch but invisible from the room. It's essentially a hidden server cupboard.
Make sure the storage hatch is accessible
You’ll need to get in there occasionally. Make sure the builder gives you a proper access panel, not one that’s awkward to open or blocked by furniture.
Run Ethernet to the storage area
Get the electrician to run at least one Cat6 cable from your main network point (wherever the broadband comes in) up to the storage area. This becomes the backbone for everything else.
Enough sockets for current and future tech
Two double sockets is a good starting point. I’ve filled both of mine. If you think you might add more equipment later, ask for three.
The bottom line
The key message is: do it during the build. Running cables, adding sockets, and planning Ethernet points is cheap and easy while the walls are open. Once the plasterboard goes up, your options shrink dramatically and the costs go up.
At minimum, get your electrician to run one or two Cat6 cables to the attic (one to the storage area, one to wherever the TV or desk will be), add enough sockets in sensible positions, and plan where your router or mesh node will sit. You'll thank yourself every day you're up there.
Cat6
Cable to ask for
€80-€200
Second router / mesh node
30W+
USB-C socket wattage to look for
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